Moving past the myths: melanin isn’t sunscreen

This piece first appeared in our February 2021 Magazine.

Many of us with darker complexions have probably been told that we don’t need to wear sunscreen because we have more melanin. This is a myth that has been passed down for far too long. Although melanin does shield off some UV rays, it is nowhere near enough on its own.

Dr. Michelle Henry from Weil Medical College said she recommends “SPF 30 for daily use and SPF 50 whenever you are outside for more than an hour.”

This misconception that melanin can work in place of sunscreen has made the black community more vulnerable to skin issues, ranging from hyperpigmentation to cancer.

This was discussed in an interview with the skin cancer foundation. Dr. Andrew Alexis, chair of the Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai St. Luke’s and Mount Sinai West in New York City said various studies found that melanomas are diagnosed at a later stage in Black patients than white patients, increasing its mortality rate amongst people of color. He attributes this to a lack of public awareness of the risk of skin cancer in Black patients. He states that the most important way to avoid this is the frequent use of sunscreen.

Some people may also have been put off sunscreen by the unflattering whitecast that leaves a chalky white residue. To avoid this, Dr. Alexis recommends “formulations that have nanoparticles, where the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide have been micronized to limit the chalky look, tend to work well on darker skin tones.

Skincare is progressing, and there is now a growingvariety of options for clear whitecast-free sunscreen. Here are a few options to consider.